Discus Fish Aquarium Filtration
Most types of aquarium filters on the market can be used in discus fish aquarium filtration. However, they may be poorly suited for use in the discus fish aquarium right out of the box. Manufacturers try to provide filters that will work in a variety of situations. The key to success is understanding aquarium filtration and how to properly configure a particular filter for discus use. Aquarium filters are generally classified under three categories. The classifications are based on the function of the filter.
The first category is chemical filtration, which involves the use of carbon, resins or other chemicals. Because these act as a magnet, holding impurities in the system that water changes would eliminate, we do not recommend this. The chemicals can become unstable and leach back into the water. A second form of filtration is mechanical filtration, which involves collecting particulates for removal later. Usually a pad is used to trap debris and is rinsed periodically. Again, tank maintenance and water changes take care of this.
The third type of filter category is the most important. It is termed biological filtration. Most types of filters can be properly configured for the discus aquarium. The key is to set it up for optimum performance. A very porous biological media material should be added to the filter. This allows lots of good nitrifying bacteria to colonize and remove toxins and impurities. For information on nitrification in the discus fish aquarium:
Discus Fish Aquarium Nitrification.
Some types of filters oxygenate the water better than others. Discus fish water should have good levels of dissolved oxygen. It is a good idea to take this into consideration when choosing a filter for your discus aquarium. For example, bio wheel filters such as the Emperor by Marineland®, do a really good job of oxygenation. Also these filters have removable baskets for adding bio media. Sponge filters are great for the discus fish aquarium. A combination of sponge filters and bio wheel filters with added biological filter media are an excellent filter setup for the discus fish aquarium.
Under Gravel Filter
For a long time this was the most popular type of filter found in aquariums. It is still popular today in some areas. This type of filter is not a good choice for the discus aquarium. The area under the filter plates builds up a thick layer of decomposing material which creates high bacteria levels. Ongoing nitrate levels can be a problem. The gravel can not be adequately cleaned without disrupting the nitrifying bacteria. The bacteria coat the gravel surface but do not penetrate into the hard interior. Placing gravel in the discus aquarium without filter plates under it allows for aggressive cleaning of the gravel to remove debris.
Canister filter, Fluidized Bed Filter
These filters are closed systems and create a load on the oxygen demand of the aquarium. In other words, they compete with the fish for the oxygen in the water. During a power outage these filters can create deadly toxins in a very short time. This is because they are closed and oxygen deficient. These filters will always consume more oxygen than created by spray bar returns. One major canister filter manufacturer has addressed this issue with the design of a wet-dry type canister filter. If you run a canister filter it would be prudent to have strong aeration in the aquarium to keep an adequate level of dissolved oxygen.
Hang on Power Filter
These filters provide excellent results in discus fish aquaria if properly configured. They should be filled with biological media. Some power filters provide a media of sponge or plastic grids. It is best to replace that with the proper bio media. Plastic is not an ideal media for filter bacteria. Some sponge material is too course for adequate colonization of nitrifying bacteria.
Wet Dry Filter (Trickle Filter)
These filters are used in marine and reef aquaria. They provide excellent degassing of CO2 and oxygenation. However, to become an effective filter for discus aquaria, bio media should be placed in the wet submerged portion of the filter under the bio balls. The water should pass through the filter a minimum of 3-4 times per hour.
Ozone, UV Sterilizer, Oxygen Column, Oxydator, Denitrator, Algae Scrubber, Low Voltage Water Purifier, Tonics, Chemicals:
There are many products available which are unnecessary and could in some instances pose a potential for problems. Do not assume a product is good for discus simply because a discus image is on the label. Products that may be good in some areas of aquatics may not necessarily be useful in the discus aquarium.
LIGHTING THE DISCUS AQUARIUM
Discus have large eyes. Unlike predatory fish, which have eyes looking forward to chase prey, discus have eyes set to the side of the head. This allows them to see things coming from the side. Their large eyes allow vision in murky water with subdued lighting. In the wild, tannin stained water reduces sunlight. Overhanging tree branches further contribute to this. As a result, the wild discus are not living in waters with lots of natural sunlight. Avoid hi intensity lighting as the discus will not like it. If you are setting up a planted discus aquarium, a full spectrum light bulb should be sufficient. These are available at your hardware store or aquarium shop.
HEATING THE DISCUS AQUARIUM
Discus are a warm water species and need the correct water temperature in the aquarium. The ideal temperature for the discus aquarium is 84 to 86 degrees. It is safer to use two smaller heaters as opposed to one large one. The heater should be completely submersible. A heater with external temperature control is convenient. However, care must be used. When the control fails, these heaters can literally cook the fish. If using a heater with an external control, touch the control regularly to determine if it is getting hot. The external control should not feel hot to the touch and can be an early warning sign of problems.
Attach the aquarium heater horizontally along the back wall, near the bottom. It should not be in a vertical up and down direction. The heater should never be viewed by the discus as a suitable site for future spawning. The ovipositor tube could get burned resulting in a build up of scar tissue. This, in turn, could lead to an obstruction and inability for the discus female to lay eggs. This condition is referred to as "egg bound". The eggs cannot pass through the scar tissue blocked tube. They remain inside the fish. They can resorb back into the body, but more often than not will decay and lead to a fatal infection.
Regular aquarium maintenance is vital to the health and well being of the discus. This includes regularly cleaning the inside walls of the aquarium. A long handle scrub brush should be used. If the aquarium is acrylic, special brushes are available that will not scratch the delicate surface. The exterior of the discus aquarium should be kept clean. Air lines and heater cords should be wiped clean on a regular basis. Power filters should be cleaned occasionally. When cleaning a power filter, place the bio media in a container of aquarium water. This keeps the beneficial bacteria alive and cleans it. A long flexible brush is useful in cleaning inside the intake tubes. The impeller can be removed from power filters and cleaned. A toothbrush is handy for this. To make a good all around cleaning solution add one cup of vinegar to a half gallon of water. This will remove mineral deposits from tank trim and glass as well as cleaning power filters with the bio media removed. Sponge filters should not be cleaned too often. Avoid using tap water to clean any biological media including sponges. The chlorine will harm them and the raw tap water will shock the bacteria. Over cleaning can disrupt the nitrifying bacteria in the biological media of the discus aquarium filter, resulting in ammonia and nitrite toxicity problems.
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