Messages posted by: um02122

Vad ca baietii de la KiwiLighting au imprumutat mixtura mea preferata de LEDuri de cand am dat comanda la ei.

https://www.kiwilighting.com/customize-5-channel-25leds-diy-aquarium-fish-tank-coral-grow-led-emitter-lamp-light

Channel 1 (15V 350-1500mA) - 5 XTE Royal blue
Channel 2 (15V 350-1000mA) - 5 XPE2 blue
Channel 3 (15V 350-1500mA) - XTE 6500k+XTE 5000k+XTE 6500k+XTE 5000k+XTE 6500k
Channel 4(15V 350-1000mA) - 5 semiLED UV 420nm
Channel 5 (15V 350-1500mA) - 5 XTE royal blue

Pai de asta am si pus-o.
Din fericire, controllerul imi permite sa selectez mixul de culori si intensitatea lor in diverse perioade ale zilei, ceea ce inseamna ca pot alege pentru vizionare (dimineata, seara) o anumita mixtura si pentru crestere alta (intensitate mare pe toate canalele - in mijlocul zilei).
Aplicatia are si photo mode, unde imi optimizez lumina pentru redarea cat mai optima a culorilor, dar si a fluorescentei.

Si combinatii
- Cool+Neutral White + Blue + near UV (fara Royal Blue)
- Cool+Neutral White + Blue + near UV + Royal Blue

adrian09 wrote:dar parca cu ;umina asta nu se mai vede asa culorile .. in prima poza se vede clar verdele,maro,gri....

Azi am finalizat lumina, cu dimmare PWM pe fiecare canal de culoare si control turatie ventilator PWM, asa ca m-am jucat cu diverse combinatii de culori.

Culorile pure - Royal Blue, Blue, near UV, Cool+Neutral White (desi la albastre, camera nu a reusit sa surprinda culoarea reala):

Ma gandeam ca la pompele Ecotech Vortech exista baterii de backup, care-ti mentin circulatia si cand e pana de curent, avantaj deloc de neglijat.

Si poze cu controllerul wireless Blue Fish Mini (plus interfata cu setarile la lampa de la RSM130 - verde e ventilatorul, restul corespund culorilor produse).
Face dimare in pasi de 0.1%.

Cateva diagrame utile pentru deslusit firele de la ventilatoarele cu trei si patru pini.

Am cautat multisor fara mare succes cum se dimeaza PMW un ventilator (am unul cu patru pini).
Intrucat am gasit toate raspunsurile intr-o singura pagina, link aici http://coralux.net/?p=437

PWM Fan Control Feature
Posted on October 14, 2013 by admin

Introduction
Fan control for the masses
Fan control. The Storm and Storm X controllers have been in users’ grubby little hands for a few months now, and one of the chief requests we’ve heard is that you want the ability to control not only the LEDs but also the fans that cool them. Well fear not, because we’ve listened and as of today we’re proud to announce that both the Storm and Storm X will ship with on-board support for fan speed control. The implementation on each of the boards is slightly different, and we’ll get into the technical nitty-gritty in just a few moments. Suffice it to say that you now have the capability to support speed control of widely-available PC fans.
PC fans generally come in three flavors as far as control is concerned: 2-Wire, 3-Wire, and 4-Wire. The 2-Wire version is dumb, and simply turns on when plugged in. The 3-Wire version is the same, except it will tell you the fan speed in rotations per minute (RPM). We’ll not concern ourselves with these two as they provide limited to no control over speed. The 4-Wire versions are what we’ll focus on because they accept a PWM signal on the 4th wire, and just like dimming your LEDs with PWM, they will adjust the fan speed via PWM.

Here’s where we get just slightly technical. According to the PC industry specification document, 4-Wire Fans are to accept a PWM signal at a frequency of 25 KHz. The reason why we can’t (or shouldn’t) directly tap off of the LED PWM signal is that that LED PWM signal is generally required to be in the 1 KHz range. Therefore we’ve had to do a little bit of tweaking to the underlying clock to achieve the specification’s 25 KHz signal. The new firmware imparts this capability to the Storm and Storm X, as well as integrating an easy menu system for you to select the fan speed.

For now, the fan speed selection is “set it and forget it.” You can specify the fan speed for when the LEDs are powered up, and the fan speed for nighttime mode. No more buzzing fans to interrupt the silence of night, plus extended service life for your fans. Some users have asked for temperature-feedback control of the fan speed. While we’ve considered this option as a gee-whiz addition, we felt it unfair to limit the fan control capability to those who opt to purchase a temperature sensor. Plus, the reality is that once you’ve set your LED schedule, the fan requirements shouldn’t vary much at all. Therefore once you’ve manually selected the speed necessary to maintain your desired LED temperature, you can sit back, crack a cold one, and enjoy the view.

connection_diagram_01

Storm X: The Storm X has a slightly different implementation of fan control. It allows you to set the fan minimum and maximum PWM duty cycles (speed), and will output these settings on pin D9. The output will be the minimum value at Night, and the maximum value from Sunrise-Day-Sunset. Pin D10 operates as a digital output, providing at 0V signal at Night/Sunrise/Sunset, and a 5V signal during the Day. This can be used to run devices (via a relay) that only need to be on during the Day.

Storm: You’ll see a menu that reads “CH4 CH5 Fan? [Y/N]” which allows you to toggle between controlling fans or not. It is important to note that this setting specifically affects CH4 and CH5 on the controller and those are the pins that you should use to control your fans if enabled. Once [Y] is selected, the CH4 and CH5 channels will output 25 KHz PWM signals in accordance with the settings set in the “Set PWM Day/Night” dialogue. Therefore the signal will ramp between the two values, and you’ll want to pay attention that the fan ramps up with your lights so that nothing overheats during sunrise/sunset.

Storm 02 Fan
‹›
Notice
Different 4-Wire PC Fans can respond to an input PWM signal in different ways. Some fans never fully shut off, even when given a 0 signal – this is meant as a safety feature. Some fans will allow control down to zero RPM. All fans will have a stall speed, typically around 20%, below which they will attempt to – and fail – to spin. As a best practice you should have your minimum fan setting either above the stall speed, or at zero.

dan.pavelescu wrote:Chestie personala: nu-mi place aranjamentul pietrelor, consider ca se putea mai bine de atat

Observatie: plastelina aia n-o sa-ti tina prea mult pietrele. Cauta ciment special (reef bond, stone fix, etc), eventual tije din plastic.

Nu esti singurul, dar esti cel mai scotian.

Pai asta e principiul de functionare la skimmerele de proteine, trebuie sa faca microbule

Ai securizat piatra cumva?
Are tendinta sa cada altfel exact cand ti-e lumea mai draga.

Legat de piatra, mie imi place sa pun piatra in directia de crestere (acropora aia din stanga mergea fain ca platou, eu asa am facut cu RSM130.

http://www.acvariu.ro/forum/posts/list/80/36966.page#p341032

Ar fi fain sa pui MaxSpect Gyre pe laterale si Ecotech Vortech pe peretele din spate.

Recomand cu caldura Ecotech Radion™ XR15 Gen 4 Freshwater LED.

Nu am experienta personala cu acest skimmer de proteine, dar din review-urii in care am incredere inteleg ca e un skimmer puternic, fiabil si silentios.

koala wrote:Proiectul e foarte misto, iar treaba cu partea de recirculare pe sus e o gaselnita extrem de ingenioasa.

In contextul unui sump nu foarte incapator, pentru bucla de recirculare vreau sa mai fac o mica modificare, o reverse check-valve, care va fi foarte utila atunci cand imi vin cele patru loc-line, care vor cobori si mai mult in display. Desi privind video-ul lui Melev incep sa cochetez si cu ideea de eductori in loc de loc-line.

Acvariul a fost folosit la cresterea melcilor gigant africani.
Asa a venit, cu capacul ala fain.
Problema e ca n-am unde sa pun capacul, asa ca l-am plasat pe tevi ca loc de depozit.

Intentionez sa maschez tevile, atat de sus, cat si din spatele acvariului, cu un pal subtire.

Dintii asa au venit. Pot comanda pieptanele de la D-D, ala are un profil mai inteligent (fante verticale plus fante orizontale).

Pai puteam sa o fac ce culoare doream eu, ca am dat comanda la bucatile de Perspex si mi-am lipit singur cutiile. Am rezistat cu greu sa o fac mov. Doar dintii te limiteaza la culoare, ca nu am gasit decat albastru, negru si transparent.

Oricum, dintii sunt alta culoare decat restul cutiei.

Acvariul are 300mm latime, iar cutia este 215x100x90mm.

Ideal, cutia n-o sa se vada. As vrea sa pun un capac care sa ascunda tevile si lumina.

Legat de proiect, singurul regret e ca nu am loc pentru mai mare.
In afara de acvariu, cam tot e facut cu manuta mea (gauri, tevaraie, overflow, lampa led (nu e facuta inca

).

Am decis sa dau cutia plina fiica-mii ca sa se joace cu ea.

Am reusit sa gasesc pozitia pentru cutia de overflow care imi da acelasi nivel de apa in display. Cu pompa de la Tunze de 2500lph am o cadere de nivel in overflow de aproximativ 1 cm.

As zice ca acum sistemul se amorseaza mult mai rapid.
Nu a trebuit sa reajustez robinetul de pe full syphon.

Nu mi-au venit inca loc-line-urile pentru cele patru tevi de retur.

La testul cu cele doua tevi blocate, emergency drain face fata, dar imi tine apa la vreo 5 mm de buza acvariului. Vreau sa mai scurtez cotul de 90°.

Ce circulatie ai acum in bazin din pompele de valuri? Asta ar trebui sa-ti dea un debit dorit (in cazul in care vrei sa te bazezi exclusiv pe pompa de recirculare).

Legat de overflow, mie imi pare nenea ala cam neglijent.
Prepara toate tevile inainte de lipire prin cantuire. O teava cu marginile necantuite va lua tot lipiciul in lumen. Una cantuita il va forta intre teava si fitting, adica acolo unde trebuie. Apoi, cred ca nenea ala a fost excesiv de generos cu cantitatea de lipici folosita. Dupa ca aplici lipiciul, cand bagi teava fa o miscare stanga dreapta si inapoi la pozitia dorita. Tine teava presata in fitting pentru cel putin 10 secunde.

um02122 wrote:Planul e sa dau comanda la bucatile de acrylic exact pe dimensiune si eu sa operez acasa lipiturile. Aici au aparut dilemele:
- fac caseta ca in designul original Bean Animal (adica fara dinti) ?
- daca da, e simplu, am calculat ca la o caseta 215(L)x100(l)x90(h)mm, 5mm grosime, culoare albastru (Perspex Blue 750 in 5 mm) am nevoie de: 1buc 215x90mm (front panel), 1buc 205x95mm (bottom panel) si 2buc 95x90mm (side panels). Plus una 205x85mm daca decid ca fac si back panel (astuia ar trebui sa-i dau si gaurile care sa corespunda la tevi). Plus una bucata 215x100mm daca vreau si capac.
- daca vreau sa fac cu dinti, astia de la perspexsheet.uk nu taie si dintii, varianta ar fi sa fac cutia mai joasa cu 50mm si sa lipesc dinti cumparati separat (500x50x5mm, 25mm combs). Atunci, bucatile ar fi: 1 buc 215x40mm (front), 205x95 (bottom) si 2 buc 95x40mm (side), Plus una 205x85mm back panel si una 215x100mm daca vreau si capac.

Gata, mi-am pierdut virginitatea in lipit acrylic.

Ramane dilema de mai sus.