um02122 wrote:Mi-am dat seama ca la geamul de acrylic stiu doar doua caracteristici cand il comand: culoarea si grosimea. Ceea ce inseamna ca am sanse mari sa comand ceva total neadecvat scopului. Inteleg ca exista doua tehnologii care produc plastic de caracteristici diferite. Apoi, ar fi folositor sa stiu detalii precum duritate, flexibilitate, rezistenta la temperatura, temperatura de topire etc. La geamul pe care l-am folosit la lampa de 50cm am inca o foaie pe care am lasat-o peste deschiderea din fata a capacului. Dupa 24 de ore, luase perfect forma deschiderii. Asta la temperatura si umiditatea camerei, sub propria greutate. Ceea ce inseamna ca odata adaugate ledurile, voi avea cu siguranta deformari in material cauzate de temperatura.

Ca atare, ma bate gandul sa comand geam de sticla pentru lumini, taiat si gaurit la comanda. As vrea sa folosesc sticla ultraclara la 2-3mm grosime.

Aveti alte sugestii?

Geam ultraclar 3 mm e perfect
Acrylul, functie de ce tip este, poate modifica si lumina, retine sau reduce anumite lungimi de unda.

Andrei, am gasit pozele de la Sebi (@Nimeni), cu lampa pe care a facut-o un finlandez de-al lui.
Poate te inspira

Multumesc, recunosc ca arata fain.

Desi este topicul meu favorit, nu am mai postat de multisor aici.
Marturisesc ca nici nu am mai lucrat deloc la vreun proiect led diy.
Dar e in permanenta in mintea mea. Materialele sunt depozitate in pod, dar la indemana.

De curand am realizat ca exista o piata imensa de leduri AquaRay la care o parte din leduri sunt arse. Pe acestea nu prea le cumpara nimeni, ceea ce a dus la devaluarea lor pe piata. Ma gandesc ca ar fi perfecte pentru proiecte noi, intrucat iti ofera o carcasa rezistenta cu radiator integrat si garnitura care le face impermeabile. Plus sisteme de grupare si suspendare deasupra acvariului.

Planul ar fi sa indepartez placuta cu circuite integrate si leduri si sa plantez in loc ce leduri doresc eu.

Aici o unitate AquaRay 600 desfacuta, mai exista AquaRay 1000/ 1500 / 2000 care sunt patrate cu latura de vreo 25 cm.

http://acvariu.ro/forum/posts/list/120/36620.page#p328118

Ma uitam dupa niste ventilatoare slim cu durata mai lunga de viata si am gasit un articol interesant despre Fluid Dynamic Bearing.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/the-truth-about-fluid-dynamic-bearing-fdb-fans/

Si revelatia cautarii: Noctua a lansat anul acesta un ventilator slim de 120mm in tehnologia specifica (MTFB 150.000 ore, garantie 6 ani):

http://noctua.at/en/nf-a12x15-flx/specification

Am vazut o lampa led interesanta la Royal Society of Arts London:

Daca gasesti lentile Fresnel plate - se pot recupera din unele monitoare LCD.

Asa m-am gandit si eu.
Lentila era una convexa.
Dar, sursele led erau asezate in cerc si lumina trecea prin lentila din directii diferite, proiectand cercuri. Cercurile sumate dau acel pattern.

Alta lampa (asta avea lentila pentru fiecare led):

Radiatorul de 50cm in care am taiat aripioare pentru un ventilator centrifugal a ajuns in capacul de la RSM130 cu cincizeci de leduri pe el.

Taieturile de neam prost din capac nu-s facute de mine, asa am cumparat acvariul de la fostul proprietar care a facut o "modificare LED" in care a atarnat cateva bare AquaRay cu coliere de plastic.

Ce nu ma asteptam (desi e logic) e modul in care circula aer ventilatorul centrifugal:
- trage aer pe sus
- il scoate pe laterale dar...
- pe o laterala scoate aer doar pe o jumatate, pe cealalta jumatate trage aer.

Ca atare, sunt doua canale care circula aer in directii opuse.
Ventilatorul e functional si fara gaura in capac din cauza asta.

Am facut o gaura de 85mm in capac.
Intre capac si radiator mai incape un ventilator de 92x15mm.

Acum stiu sigur ca turbina suge aer pe sus intrucat ventilatorul adaugat deasupra se invarte si daca nu e bagat in priza.

In configuratia actuala (cu ledurile la 100% si gaura in capac) turbina imi tine radiatorul la 35 °C. Doar ventilatorul de 92mm tine radiatorul la 45 °C.

Ce as putea imbunatati pe racire:
- sa renunt la perforaje si sa la capacul de pe radiator cu o gaura (avea dreptate Koala ca restictioneaza debitul patternul meu fancy cu gauri in spirale, in principal pentru ca ventilatorul este MULT mai puternic decat ma asteptam).
- sa adaug un controller de ventilator cu reglaj turatii functie de temperatura pe heatsink
- sa dimmez ledurile sau sa le alimentez cu LDDuri mai putin puternice (700 in loc de 1000mA pentru Cree XTE si 500 in loc de 700mA pentru restul.

In plus, si acumulatorul de 48V tip adaptor de plastic se incalzeste, iar cum planul era sa-l montez in carcasa, l-as scoate din plastic si l-as monta si pe el pe un heatsink de aluminiu.

Fan-urile au marcat pe corp sensul de rotatie si sensul de trecere al aerului (2 sageti).

Ventilatoarele centrifugale (nu au aripile profilate si/sau inclinate) au cel mai bun randament (implicit cel mai bun flux de aer - sau fluid) cind intrarea se face prin centru - coaxial cu axul de rotatie - si iesirea prin lateral - la virful paletei se obtine viteza maxima a fluidului.

Ale mele sunt modelul care se folosea pe placile ATI Radeon HD 4870/5770/5970/6990. Similar si pe nVidia GeForce 8800GTX.
Modelul montat e de 12V, 0.8A, dar exista si de 1.0A si chiar 1.2A.

Am facut niste teste de raspandire a luminii cu metoda colorarii apei cu zooplancton.
Acvariul are 60 cm latime si 40 cm lungime si vreo 50 inaltime.
Placile led sunt asezate la 20 cm distanta de margine si intre ele.

Am cautat multisor fara mare succes cum se dimeaza PMW un ventilator (am unul cu patru pini).
Intrucat am gasit toate raspunsurile intr-o singura pagina, link aici http://coralux.net/?p=437

PWM Fan Control Feature
Posted on October 14, 2013 by admin

Introduction
Fan control for the masses
Fan control. The Storm and Storm X controllers have been in users’ grubby little hands for a few months now, and one of the chief requests we’ve heard is that you want the ability to control not only the LEDs but also the fans that cool them. Well fear not, because we’ve listened and as of today we’re proud to announce that both the Storm and Storm X will ship with on-board support for fan speed control. The implementation on each of the boards is slightly different, and we’ll get into the technical nitty-gritty in just a few moments. Suffice it to say that you now have the capability to support speed control of widely-available PC fans.
PC fans generally come in three flavors as far as control is concerned: 2-Wire, 3-Wire, and 4-Wire. The 2-Wire version is dumb, and simply turns on when plugged in. The 3-Wire version is the same, except it will tell you the fan speed in rotations per minute (RPM). We’ll not concern ourselves with these two as they provide limited to no control over speed. The 4-Wire versions are what we’ll focus on because they accept a PWM signal on the 4th wire, and just like dimming your LEDs with PWM, they will adjust the fan speed via PWM.

Here’s where we get just slightly technical. According to the PC industry specification document, 4-Wire Fans are to accept a PWM signal at a frequency of 25 KHz. The reason why we can’t (or shouldn’t) directly tap off of the LED PWM signal is that that LED PWM signal is generally required to be in the 1 KHz range. Therefore we’ve had to do a little bit of tweaking to the underlying clock to achieve the specification’s 25 KHz signal. The new firmware imparts this capability to the Storm and Storm X, as well as integrating an easy menu system for you to select the fan speed.

For now, the fan speed selection is “set it and forget it.” You can specify the fan speed for when the LEDs are powered up, and the fan speed for nighttime mode. No more buzzing fans to interrupt the silence of night, plus extended service life for your fans. Some users have asked for temperature-feedback control of the fan speed. While we’ve considered this option as a gee-whiz addition, we felt it unfair to limit the fan control capability to those who opt to purchase a temperature sensor. Plus, the reality is that once you’ve set your LED schedule, the fan requirements shouldn’t vary much at all. Therefore once you’ve manually selected the speed necessary to maintain your desired LED temperature, you can sit back, crack a cold one, and enjoy the view.

connection_diagram_01

Storm X: The Storm X has a slightly different implementation of fan control. It allows you to set the fan minimum and maximum PWM duty cycles (speed), and will output these settings on pin D9. The output will be the minimum value at Night, and the maximum value from Sunrise-Day-Sunset. Pin D10 operates as a digital output, providing at 0V signal at Night/Sunrise/Sunset, and a 5V signal during the Day. This can be used to run devices (via a relay) that only need to be on during the Day.

Storm: You’ll see a menu that reads “CH4 CH5 Fan? [Y/N]” which allows you to toggle between controlling fans or not. It is important to note that this setting specifically affects CH4 and CH5 on the controller and those are the pins that you should use to control your fans if enabled. Once [Y] is selected, the CH4 and CH5 channels will output 25 KHz PWM signals in accordance with the settings set in the “Set PWM Day/Night” dialogue. Therefore the signal will ramp between the two values, and you’ll want to pay attention that the fan ramps up with your lights so that nothing overheats during sunrise/sunset.


Storm 02 Fan
‹›
Notice
Different 4-Wire PC Fans can respond to an input PWM signal in different ways. Some fans never fully shut off, even when given a 0 signal – this is meant as a safety feature. Some fans will allow control down to zero RPM. All fans will have a stall speed, typically around 20%, below which they will attempt to – and fail – to spin. As a best practice you should have your minimum fan setting either above the stall speed, or at zero.

Cateva diagrame utile pentru deslusit firele de la ventilatoarele cu trei si patru pini.

Si poze cu controllerul wireless Blue Fish Mini (plus interfata cu setarile la lampa de la RSM130 - verde e ventilatorul, restul corespund culorilor produse).
Face dimare in pasi de 0.1%.

Vad ca baietii de la KiwiLighting au imprumutat mixtura mea preferata de LEDuri de cand am dat comanda la ei.

https://www.kiwilighting.com/customize-5-channel-25leds-diy-aquarium-fish-tank-coral-grow-led-emitter-lamp-light

Channel 1 (15V 350-1500mA) - 5 XTE Royal blue
Channel 2 (15V 350-1000mA) - 5 XPE2 blue
Channel 3 (15V 350-1500mA) - XTE 6500k+XTE 5000k+XTE 6500k+XTE 5000k+XTE 6500k
Channel 4(15V 350-1000mA) - 5 semiLED UV 420nm
Channel 5 (15V 350-1500mA) - 5 XTE royal blue

Ma gandeam la o lista de piese pentru proiectul de conversie LED la RSM130:

- 2x multicip 25 leds - $100
- controller wireless Blue Fish Mini - $100
- conectori si cabluri (pentru placile led si controller) solderless - $5
- ventilator turbina de 75mm - $10
- radiator aluminiu 500x125x34mm si placa aluminium 500x400x2mm - $50
- set opt suruburi M6 50mm countersink cu piulite
- 3x LDD-1000HW - $30
- 2x LDD-700HW - $20
- driver AC 220V to DC 12V - era in carcasa pentru moonlight si ventilatoare
- power adapter 48V ~3A 144W - $15

Cu inca alte maruntisuri folosite (banda izolatoare, cabluri, fire etc.) ajung la maxim $350 pentru o lampa de 144W, 50 leduri, fara lentile, cu control wireless.